It’s about time we re-visited Egle Trincanato and Venetian Domestic Architecture.
This example is found just across the canal from the Carmini church (Santa Maria del Carmelo), and is from the 17th century.
Trincanato describes it thus: ” Building remarkable for the vertical quality, emphasised by the tall narrow windows, one above the other, connected by cornices, as though they were hanging, in the late baroque style; in contrast, the uninterrupted wall on the ground floor.”
It certainly is an example of vertical architecture. I wouldn’t mind having an apartment facing the church campo.
Today, you’re standing in the Campo San Giuseppe, after walking there from the Biennale vaporetto stop. You pause before you cross the bridge over the Rio di San Giuseppe, and your eyes fall on this building just to the left, on the other side of the Rio.
You’re looking at another of the domestic dwellings described by Egle Trincanato inVenetian domestic architecture. Built in the 16-17th century, it is still in use as a home for families.
The design is simple, with the windows on the first floor offering a touch of quiet elegance.
Here is another of the buildings featured in Venetian domestic architecture (Trincanato). It is found on the Zattere, Dorsoduro.
If you’ve ever stopped for a gelato or an aperitif at Gelateria Nico (at 922), then you were right in the neighbourhood of this dwelling from the 15th century.
The features described by Signora Trincanato such as the three part divison of the facade rising above the portico are still clearly visible. (When you stand far enough back!) Aren’t those windows above the portico graceful?
The booklet mentions that the portico was used a walkway while the fondamenta was built, in 1519. (A fondamenta is a walkway built along the water side.)
Next door to the building in question is the Ristorante and Pizzeria Terrazza del Casin dei Nobili. There is no shortage of places to eat and drink along the Zattere. It’s a brilliant place to sit and watch the…
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Yet another of the little jewels from Venetian domestic architecture (Trincanato and Salvadori) are these dwellings to be found in this corte.
Trincanato says “24 small houses, built in 1529 with a bequest of Pietro Olivieri made to the members of the Scuola di San Marco.”
As I recall the well was hexagonal in shape. Those masegni (paving stones) look to have been around for a few centuries.
This inscribed marble will give some of you an hour or so of deciphering fun!
The dwellings were originally built as working-class housing, and they still retain a humble appearance.
Another example of 15th century dwellings, but so frustratingly difficult to photograph in that narrow calle!
Signora Trincanato (Venetian domestic dwellings), notes that these humble flats provided independent stairways for each flat, a nice concession for respect and privacy.
I liked the fact that the window surrounds are graceful and beautiful.
Six centuries later, the flats have stood the test of time.
And, spotted in downtown Dismal Swamp. I don’t think I’d be so proudly proclaiming my status to the world! 🙂
How many times have we passed these buildings, or eaten and had something to drink at one of the cafes? Little did we know that they are probably from the 14th-15th century, although they have been somewhat rebuilt.
Apparently, this doorway is from the 13th (or possibly even the 12th) century! Do stop and admire it next time you pass that way.
Now, doesn’t this look very familiar?
I wish we could meet there right now, for a great cup of coffee, or a spritz.
In my last week in Venice, I bought this excellent little publication, in a bookshop in Dorsoduro (Libreria Toletta). It covers domestic architecture in Castello and Dorsoduro, from the 12th to the 18th centuries. How I wish I had bought it earlier in my stay! Each of the featured dwellings has a brief description, with line drawings, and often a sketch of the interior structure. The original book was published in 1948, so you may notice some changes to the buildings when you seek them out.
One of the sets of buildings was on Calle delle Furlane, in Castello. These homes are from the 17th century.
These photos show you the current state of this group of dwellings. The alley is quite narrow, so I didn’t capture an overview.
This is another of the domestic dwellings featured in the Venice domesticarchitecture booklet I mentioned in this post castello
The authors had this to say about this 17th century palazzo : “probably built for two shop-keepers or boat-owners (there are two separate entrances and two shops on the ground floor); it has a lively robust air.”
I did wonder which of the two owners would have staked a claim on the balcony, or did they take turns with access? What do you think?
During a previous visit to Venice, I found a small booklet titled Venice: Venetian Domestic Architecture, by Egle Trincanato and edited by Renzo Salvadori.
This work covers the two sestieri (districts) of Castello and Dorsoduro, and focuses on buildings of the 12th to the 18th centuries. These are not grand palazzi, but down to earth homes, of ordinary Venetians.
I have located quite a few of these dwellings, and will share them with you, from time to time.
Some have been changed so radically that you would never recognise them as the same building sketched in the booklet. The narrow calli of Venice also pose some challenges in capturing good images.
The first one I visited is on Salizzada S Lio, 5691. The author comments that this home would have been from the 13th-14th century.
The ground floor was probably also occupied by a shop when this little palazzo was built. It is noted that the…
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This is another of the dwellings featured in Venice: Venetian domestic architecture by Egle Trincanato. It is described as ” a small palace with remains of 11th century work”. The “three part mullioned window was rebuilt in the 16th century, with capitals dating from the 13th or 14th century”.
There is no mention of the age worn carving you will notice in the photo of the archway, and the close-up shots.
What a wonderland I was privileged to enter.
